Bowsewr
Apr-08-2014, 19:08
4/9/14 *edited terminology in prop management and water rads. Thanks Snapper!*
In Progress *tips/tricks of in-game data windows*
I decided to write up something for newcomers to the game. It basically consists of things I've learned playing the game for 2-3 months and the great tips/tricks from people in the community. I can remember how open to teaching and helpful ATAG_Drock was to me when i logged in for the first time with NO IDEA what to do.
*edit: there have been SO many that have helped along the way. That first time logging in and the feeling of OH MY GOD, is very memorable.Thanks to all that have. As a newcomer this community is very special IMO and you wont find a more welcoming/fun group to play with. :salute:
So i thought i would carry on the love for the new guys, we were all there once and are always in a state of learning. If i mistyped something or missed something please let me know or add it in comments. I know there are TONS of GREAT guides stickied and written already, but this is just my version of it. Just a side note, when i started i wrote down pertinent numbers like RPM ranges and key commands on a notecard next to my keyboard so i could quickly refer to them.
This guide pertains to the Spitfires and Hurricanes
Start-Up *edited the order. Thanks busdriver for the input.*
-Throttle to ~4%
-Prop at 100% (you want this keyed somewhere fast and convenient. will change a lot)
-Mix (dont ever have to change this. 0%=Auto Rich, 100%=Auto Lean)
-Rads to 100% open
-Fuel cock open and confirm correct gas tank selected with fuel gauge
-Magnetos on
-Flaps up (you may elect to have ~10% flaps on takeoff, just remember to close once on the air)
-Reticle light on (Alt-H by default i believe) while waiting to warm up
-Once you get the engine started just hang tight with throttle low at like 4% until the OIL Temp = 40c. Otherwise you will block oil gaskets and you wont make it far. You may have to skip this rule if your base is being straffed and dont have time to loiter, however you have a chance of reducing performance and engine damage.
-if you are in a late model hurricane/spit you can engage boost-cutout (on the left of the dash, big red switch) to get an extra 10% of throttle (110% total) this helps taking off and getting places quickly (disengage at 4k ft to avoid blowing motor)
Take-off/flight tips
-With the newest patch the non-runway ground is much more rough and prop torque is much higher. I recommend gradually increasing throttle to 100%+ and never just slamming it to the firewall.
-SO, two big reasons to blow engines once in the air
1) Rads were closed or not full open on take off or warm-up. Your engine overheated.
2) You didnt manage your engine RPMs with your Prop pitch and it overheated
1)Water Radiator. When you start flying just keep your water rads at 100% open. This helps keep your engine cool. You will hear of people flying with rads lower. When your rads are closed it improves aerodynamics and decreases drag to get extra speed out of the plane. But if you are climbing or fighting and not watching your temps with partially closed rads you are at higher risk of burning your engine up. You will learn this in time.
2)Prop management is THE most important factor in keeping your plane happy and something you will be checking and changing often during flight. When you take off your RPMs are high with prop at 100% but that is fine, it's for a very short period. When you are in the air w/ gear up it is time to start decreasing your prop pitch %. This is basically acting as the gear box in a car to maintain RPMs.
Snapper Explanation of prop pitch *Great!*:
One Note: Prop Management - As with the mixture settings, this sim characterizes the percentage value opposite to what most would think is logical (ie Auto Rich mixture = 0%; Auto Lean = 100%). So it is with Prop Pitch: 100% prop pitch (lever fully forward) is Fine Pitch. Used for take off, landings, and situations demanding high acceleration/high rpms. 0% (prop pitch lever pulled fully back) is coarse pitch. Coarse pitch creates more aggressive "bite" into the air and a lot more rotational drag on the engine. This is your "high gear" for maintaining high speeds at a lower rpm = less stress/less heat buildup with the engine.
The reason fine pitch is used for landings is two-fold:
1. Fine pitch will provide better response to engine inputs as you enter final approach; sometimes you need a critical "engine blip" if you've misjudged your speed a bit on the slow side.
2. The blades of the propellor are *almost* flat towards the direction of travel, providing much-needed drag (braking force) in the case of Spitfires that "float" forever before touchdown.
Conversely, if you're in a deadstick situation and you're gritting your teeth whether you'll make it to your airfield, try moving your prop to fully coarse (0%). It's about as close to "feathering the prop" as you can get by turning the blades *almost* parallel to the direction of travel and reducing drag considerably.
. You will notice that your RPMs will drop below and then go above your goal numbers and so you will be changing accordingly. You will also after a period of time notice the ambient sounds of the motor and will, without having to look, notice "hey, my RPMs are getting highlow i need to check that" just from the sound. Dont try that at first, it is all the same loud rumble, enjoy the scenery and realize your managing a piece of history :salute:
Goal RPM is <2800 (28 on gauge) RPM
Optimal RPM for sustained flight 2700 RPM
Short period danger zone is 2800-3000 RPMs. You can hang in this area approximately 5-10minutes
DANGER ZONE = 3000 RPM +. This area you will burn your motor in <5min depending on how high it is
If you manage your water rads, your prop pitch, and trim your plane out once you are in the air. You are off to a good start! You will refine your skills/techniques in time and the only way to do so is to fly and blow up your motor a few times (well more than that, even experienced guys still do occasionally). Ask for help and use the forums as it's a great location for information/tips/tricks.
Navigation
Navigation is the hardest part next to engine managements . There are good reference maps landmarks. Just takes time. Mastering and figuring out the compass and gyro is a different beast and there are good guides on it in the forums but not necessary getting started as much If you use visual landmarks.
Start out by having the map out and focused on the area you spawned at (by a coast is easier). Take off. Then Use the channel as an initial point for rough direction. Is it to the left or right of you as you go down the coast. Then look for airfields, big cities/harbors, or terrain like cliffs. You can start pinpointing your location more accurately. After a while you will get familiar with the terms and locations mentioned in teamspeak. But this is how i started out learning. Like everything, you only learn it by doing it and getting lost ;)
Here is a link to a beginner's map with landmarks as a starting point
http://theairtacticalassaultgroup.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6722
Gun Loadout
So you are in the air now and are ready to start shootin up some Jerrys. You can do with the default load out. However, the default loadout is less than optimal. It will take way more rounds on target than it should to put him out of action.
When you go to the plane loadout before you spawn in you can go to guns and change each gun's bullet type and horizontal/vertical convergence. You will hear different load outs from everyone. Some use tracers, some dont ect. It's personal preference. Play with different loadouts and ratios for each gun. Also, the convergence is a personal thing too I prefer around the 200yd mark. Others like longer range convergences. You just need to remember to set your range on your gun site for whatever you set it as. *your changes are gun specific, so make sure you check each gun*
Round Types to consider from experience and popular opinion on forums:
*Incendiary/Tracer (White). this is a tracer which also has incendiary properties. The other traces do not have this property but are different colors.
*Armor Piercing. Self explanatory, helps especially on engines and components
*Incendiary Mark VIz "DeWilde". This is one of the most popular brit rounds as it has a small explosion on impact and good at starting fires, this tends to upset the germans as of late ;)
-the ball ammo doesnt seem to do enough to be considered and i dont hear of many people using them. not saying NOT to and others may disagree, but it's of mixed opinions. I personally don’t right now.
Hope this helps someone starting out. Don’t be afraid to post questions and to hop into TeamSpeak and give me shout! If you'd rather not post in public you are more than welcome to private message me.
Take care and see you in the skies o7
71st_AH_Bowsewr
In Progress *tips/tricks of in-game data windows*
I decided to write up something for newcomers to the game. It basically consists of things I've learned playing the game for 2-3 months and the great tips/tricks from people in the community. I can remember how open to teaching and helpful ATAG_Drock was to me when i logged in for the first time with NO IDEA what to do.
*edit: there have been SO many that have helped along the way. That first time logging in and the feeling of OH MY GOD, is very memorable.Thanks to all that have. As a newcomer this community is very special IMO and you wont find a more welcoming/fun group to play with. :salute:
So i thought i would carry on the love for the new guys, we were all there once and are always in a state of learning. If i mistyped something or missed something please let me know or add it in comments. I know there are TONS of GREAT guides stickied and written already, but this is just my version of it. Just a side note, when i started i wrote down pertinent numbers like RPM ranges and key commands on a notecard next to my keyboard so i could quickly refer to them.
This guide pertains to the Spitfires and Hurricanes
Start-Up *edited the order. Thanks busdriver for the input.*
-Throttle to ~4%
-Prop at 100% (you want this keyed somewhere fast and convenient. will change a lot)
-Mix (dont ever have to change this. 0%=Auto Rich, 100%=Auto Lean)
-Rads to 100% open
-Fuel cock open and confirm correct gas tank selected with fuel gauge
-Magnetos on
-Flaps up (you may elect to have ~10% flaps on takeoff, just remember to close once on the air)
-Reticle light on (Alt-H by default i believe) while waiting to warm up
-Once you get the engine started just hang tight with throttle low at like 4% until the OIL Temp = 40c. Otherwise you will block oil gaskets and you wont make it far. You may have to skip this rule if your base is being straffed and dont have time to loiter, however you have a chance of reducing performance and engine damage.
-if you are in a late model hurricane/spit you can engage boost-cutout (on the left of the dash, big red switch) to get an extra 10% of throttle (110% total) this helps taking off and getting places quickly (disengage at 4k ft to avoid blowing motor)
Take-off/flight tips
-With the newest patch the non-runway ground is much more rough and prop torque is much higher. I recommend gradually increasing throttle to 100%+ and never just slamming it to the firewall.
-SO, two big reasons to blow engines once in the air
1) Rads were closed or not full open on take off or warm-up. Your engine overheated.
2) You didnt manage your engine RPMs with your Prop pitch and it overheated
1)Water Radiator. When you start flying just keep your water rads at 100% open. This helps keep your engine cool. You will hear of people flying with rads lower. When your rads are closed it improves aerodynamics and decreases drag to get extra speed out of the plane. But if you are climbing or fighting and not watching your temps with partially closed rads you are at higher risk of burning your engine up. You will learn this in time.
2)Prop management is THE most important factor in keeping your plane happy and something you will be checking and changing often during flight. When you take off your RPMs are high with prop at 100% but that is fine, it's for a very short period. When you are in the air w/ gear up it is time to start decreasing your prop pitch %. This is basically acting as the gear box in a car to maintain RPMs.
Snapper Explanation of prop pitch *Great!*:
One Note: Prop Management - As with the mixture settings, this sim characterizes the percentage value opposite to what most would think is logical (ie Auto Rich mixture = 0%; Auto Lean = 100%). So it is with Prop Pitch: 100% prop pitch (lever fully forward) is Fine Pitch. Used for take off, landings, and situations demanding high acceleration/high rpms. 0% (prop pitch lever pulled fully back) is coarse pitch. Coarse pitch creates more aggressive "bite" into the air and a lot more rotational drag on the engine. This is your "high gear" for maintaining high speeds at a lower rpm = less stress/less heat buildup with the engine.
The reason fine pitch is used for landings is two-fold:
1. Fine pitch will provide better response to engine inputs as you enter final approach; sometimes you need a critical "engine blip" if you've misjudged your speed a bit on the slow side.
2. The blades of the propellor are *almost* flat towards the direction of travel, providing much-needed drag (braking force) in the case of Spitfires that "float" forever before touchdown.
Conversely, if you're in a deadstick situation and you're gritting your teeth whether you'll make it to your airfield, try moving your prop to fully coarse (0%). It's about as close to "feathering the prop" as you can get by turning the blades *almost* parallel to the direction of travel and reducing drag considerably.
. You will notice that your RPMs will drop below and then go above your goal numbers and so you will be changing accordingly. You will also after a period of time notice the ambient sounds of the motor and will, without having to look, notice "hey, my RPMs are getting highlow i need to check that" just from the sound. Dont try that at first, it is all the same loud rumble, enjoy the scenery and realize your managing a piece of history :salute:
Goal RPM is <2800 (28 on gauge) RPM
Optimal RPM for sustained flight 2700 RPM
Short period danger zone is 2800-3000 RPMs. You can hang in this area approximately 5-10minutes
DANGER ZONE = 3000 RPM +. This area you will burn your motor in <5min depending on how high it is
If you manage your water rads, your prop pitch, and trim your plane out once you are in the air. You are off to a good start! You will refine your skills/techniques in time and the only way to do so is to fly and blow up your motor a few times (well more than that, even experienced guys still do occasionally). Ask for help and use the forums as it's a great location for information/tips/tricks.
Navigation
Navigation is the hardest part next to engine managements . There are good reference maps landmarks. Just takes time. Mastering and figuring out the compass and gyro is a different beast and there are good guides on it in the forums but not necessary getting started as much If you use visual landmarks.
Start out by having the map out and focused on the area you spawned at (by a coast is easier). Take off. Then Use the channel as an initial point for rough direction. Is it to the left or right of you as you go down the coast. Then look for airfields, big cities/harbors, or terrain like cliffs. You can start pinpointing your location more accurately. After a while you will get familiar with the terms and locations mentioned in teamspeak. But this is how i started out learning. Like everything, you only learn it by doing it and getting lost ;)
Here is a link to a beginner's map with landmarks as a starting point
http://theairtacticalassaultgroup.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6722
Gun Loadout
So you are in the air now and are ready to start shootin up some Jerrys. You can do with the default load out. However, the default loadout is less than optimal. It will take way more rounds on target than it should to put him out of action.
When you go to the plane loadout before you spawn in you can go to guns and change each gun's bullet type and horizontal/vertical convergence. You will hear different load outs from everyone. Some use tracers, some dont ect. It's personal preference. Play with different loadouts and ratios for each gun. Also, the convergence is a personal thing too I prefer around the 200yd mark. Others like longer range convergences. You just need to remember to set your range on your gun site for whatever you set it as. *your changes are gun specific, so make sure you check each gun*
Round Types to consider from experience and popular opinion on forums:
*Incendiary/Tracer (White). this is a tracer which also has incendiary properties. The other traces do not have this property but are different colors.
*Armor Piercing. Self explanatory, helps especially on engines and components
*Incendiary Mark VIz "DeWilde". This is one of the most popular brit rounds as it has a small explosion on impact and good at starting fires, this tends to upset the germans as of late ;)
-the ball ammo doesnt seem to do enough to be considered and i dont hear of many people using them. not saying NOT to and others may disagree, but it's of mixed opinions. I personally don’t right now.
Hope this helps someone starting out. Don’t be afraid to post questions and to hop into TeamSpeak and give me shout! If you'd rather not post in public you are more than welcome to private message me.
Take care and see you in the skies o7
71st_AH_Bowsewr