Wow I didn´t know all that. I learned something. I will look into this. Thank you!
Printable View
Attachment 36743
Finally!!! Version three is it. This time soldering took only 30 mins. thanks the help of 1Lokos.
For soldering clip I used a pair of inverted tweezers. Suits the problem and don´t need to wait for mail.
Pots aren´t grilled this way and you have time for other things in life. Great tipp 1Lokos!! :thumbsup:
What I still have is a small problem with the Auto-W/Center-Calibration. It works, but when you disconnect and reconnect the Arduino the high limit is 511 instead of 1022. So I worked around and used the Manual Settings with 0/511/1022.
Other than that the pots readouts are very stable with the twisted wires and there is no twitching at all.
Even better than many of those cheap Joysticks you can buy.
I am now a proud owner of a 6 Axes homemade Joystick with your help.
I will look forward to make it a 6 Axes, 32 Buttons now, meaning I will now start working on the switches.
to be continued...:thumbsup:
I guess that "auto-calibration" is good only for joystick (or thumbstick) X,Y axes because when you turn ON computer the pot of this axis are in their middle position, why is assumed a value around 512.Quote:
What I still have is a small problem with the Auto-W/Center-Calibration.
Ah Ok I´ll keep that in mind for future troubles...
Wonder if I can use lighted switches with three pins.
But if you throw the switch to the one side with the powered pin you transfer this power to either the columns or the rows of the board I guess.
Maybe a Diode could also help in this case!?
Looking good !
and like lokos says, with soldering if yuo can make it fast.
clean the tip before each new joint, (in a pinch just add a bit more solder and then flick it all off again)
You can see when its going to give a crummy joing at the surcae looks wrinkley instead of smooth.
dont be scared of using flux too... and always pre tin the ends of bare wires... (ie get some solder on them before you make the final connection.
now...
can anyone help me out with which kayak to get for the winter... amd which wet suit?
Attachment 36783
Ref. the above pic: is it possible to use the light in the lighted switch or will it kill the Arduino Board?
Guess if, needs something like a Diode and external Power source!?
If I put power between either the left (POWER) or middle pin (ACC) to the GROUND then the light goes ON.
Guten Abend! :D
I finally did it!
Trim Box is ready and "Airworthy"!
I´m really proud of presenting it to you now...couldn´t wait...
It has been a real pain. Mistakes, faults, trial and error...
Spent 1,5 months of my freetime doing it. But after I connected it to my PC (I really couldn´t do it on first attempt because I thought I couldn´t take it if it won´t work) I was rewarded for the job.
Fortunately it worked from the first time I connected it to the PC and I just took a round trip through south england utilizing and enjoying the new box.
I did not use it to the fullest extent, because I was fed up soldering. I had used already 6 feet of soldering wire until then, plus after finishing about 60% I realized that I hooked the Matrix up incorrect,:banghead:
so I ended up with "only" 25 switches and 8 Axes.
For the rudder and elevator trim pots I used servo gears that were leftover und unused in my hobby-box. The gear-ratio is around 1:4 and it feels just good like this.
I airbrushed the whole thingy using Vallejo and Tamiya Colors and off cause i had to add some wear and tear and used effects. (my second Hobby is plastic modeling).
What I still don´t understand is the command for landing gear and flaps behavior. I utilized a three pole double throw switch for each so I could make 2 Arduino Switches included in one
physical switch enabling me to use one side for up, the other for down. Testing this with the landing gear I found out that while using it like that it will omit the gear neutral step.
But it won´t do that with the flaps. So i´m still thinking about a solution here. Since I used a original Bae-146 landing light switch for the flaps I might add the middle Position which has two
unused connecting pins for the neutral step.
But this is moaning on a high level. :D
I learned a lot doing this and without your help in the arduino and soldering details I would not have been able to.
So thanks a lot guys at this point for all your help and the time involved!!!:thumbsup: I Really Appreciate this!:thumbsup:
And here are the pictures of the Box.....I hope you like it...enjoy:
Attachment 37000
Attachment 37001
Attachment 37002
Attachment 37003
Attachment 37004
Attachment 37005
Attachment 37006
Attachment 37007
Attachment 37008
Excellent bit of work and fantastic 'aged' look.
Hope you enjoy using it.
This sort of stuff has a nasty habit of getting under your skin and it won't be long before you start looking for something else to build - just ask Highseas!!
~S~
Nice job. The weathering looks great!
Very nice Mattwurst.
I struggle putting 2 lego blocks together myself so really enjoy seeing these builds.
:salute:
That looks awesome!
:salute:
Looks great!:thumbsup:
Hope it's working well for you Mattwurst.:salute:
Brilliant! Love the simulated age you've given it. Well done, Mattwurst! :thumbsup:
:salute:
For now WIP - MegaMOZG plane release, in ~two months (be sure© :D) a new version of MMjoy2 firmware, whit support for more encoder, actually limited in 6, and other changes.
And their MMJoyPanel, actually compatible only with War Thunder data export should support IL-2:46 and IL-2:CLOD Devicelink output, usable in up to 8 LED segments panels.
https://i.imgur.com/5jdiTNK.png
https://forum.il2sturmovik.ru/upload...39d69b7fc2.jpg
Off course not useful for VR players. :no:
Another option for DIY joystick controller, FreeJoy firmware for use cheap (~$2)ARM STM32 boards - advantage, 12 bits (4096 points) on axes.
https://theairtacticalassaultgroup.c...889#post347889