My X-55 throttle just died, alternatives?

[Nightdare]

Well, my throttle was acting funky, opened it up and lo and behold,... broken wires in the right throttle (and the left is starting as well)

Now I can try to fix it myself, but 'that'll be quite an undertaking for my skill level, and I'd probably need to replace everything from stem to stern (or get a chain/weakest link effect)
It also makes me wonder how long the stick will last (my combat rudders already have a non functioning toe brake, that I hardly ever used,..that's Saitek for ya)

So, what's out there?

[ATAG_Highseas]

Well, my throttle was acting funky, opened it up and lo and behold,... broken wires in the right throttle (and the left is starting as well)

Now I can try to fix it myself, but 'that'll be quite an undertaking for my skill level, and I'd probably need to replace everything from stem to stern (or get a chain/weakest link effect)
It also makes me wonder how long the stick will last (my combat rudders already have a non functioning toe brake, that I hardly ever used,..that's Saitek for ya)

So, what's out there?

If you lived closer that the Neverlambs I'd say fling it at me... I will re connect it all... and fling it back... which I will if you like... but the postage might be pricey?... absolutely happy to do it though with work gratis.

If I was on a tight budget and wanted good... id go with CH Pro.

In fact if i was on a medium budget id do that too....

I'd buy CH Pro for everything unless I was going ultra premium / bespoke... (which I have over time)... but CH gear... its old style.. uses "old" tech.... and is infinetly superior to Saitek.

(if you wanna post the throttle I will happily fix it up for you... and advise you of the cheapest return cost)

[1lokos]

Depend too if you want a "general purpose" throttle (warbirds, jets, cosmosim) or a more specific type one.

For GP use the one that offer more functionality is the new - and expensive VPC T50 throttle, but the actual version lack "slew" control - CH PRO Throttle have.

On the budget Thrustmaster TWCS, with two extra axes (but one usable only for rudder, due return to center spring) and "slew" control.

For warbirds, GVL224 custom throttle - $200 range (plus: contactless sensor in main axes - like VPC).

But a basic solder iron, solder and some silicone rubber insulated wires, heatshrink tube and some patience will fix X-55 broken wires.

[ATAG_Highseas]

But a basic solder iron, solder and some silicone rubber insulated wires, heatshrink tube and some patience will fix X-55 broken wires.

Yep.

Solder... some heat shrink over the joints... (silicone insulated wires?.. LORDY !!! I'm not made of money... no... It will have to be this "normal" stuff out of the bag of stuff I scavened from those thingies I had over the years that that broke down.)


Solder this, Solder those

(It's a poem, this isn't prose)

Heat shrink this. That one too!

Splendid stuff... and better than new.


I thank you.

[Baffin]

Fix it yourself! At one time, every one of us had exactly your skill level, so if we can learn it, you can too. Find a wiring/colorcode chart for your controller on the internet and take your time. Read about proper soldering tools and techniques, practice a little, and you should get a lot of satisfaction when it's all said and done. Broken wire repair is simple mechanics. I recommend hot glue for repair insulation instead of silicone from a tube because silicone will emit mild acid fumes as it cures leading to potential corrosion. Hot glue is also faster... you can use the system as soon as it cools.

EDIT: Heat shrink tubing is great for splices but frequently it will not fit in tight spaces around terminals. Hot glue also provides extra protection against unwanted flexing where the wires broke originally.

[ATAG_Highseas]

I recommend hot glue for repair insulation instead of silicone from a tube because silicone will emit mild acid fumes as it cures leading to potential corrosion. Hot glue is also faster... you can use the system as soon as it cools.

Heat shrink tubing from me. No mess. No messing about

[rel4y]

Whats wrong with your Saitek rudder? I had two broken "clamps" inside the left pedal and fixed it with a 3D printed part. Also replaced a bad pot with a hall sensor. Its still working like a charm!

https://theairtacticalassaultgroup.c...=saitek+rudder

Most of the time the fixes are much easier though, at least give it a try!

[Nightdare]

-High Seas:
Thanks for the offer


I spent some time weighing the pro's and cons (and countless hours re-setting up my old G940)
Those Virpil and GVL224 offerings looks mighty tempting, but price and availability made me decide to give it a go at fixing the bugger myself first (Can't break what's already broken )

But I must confess, it isn't the low price of parts that made me decide to heat up the iron,
but the fact that, what I thought would be the biggest problem: the right hand throttle (14 wires), has a connector on both sides,
so it's simply a matter of pulling the wires through, comparing the old plugs, align the terminals and plug the new loom in
Which I can manage a lot more easily than trying to manoeuvre a soldering iron against a wire and a terminal of a part I cannot easily replace (wouldn't be the first time I melt a switch or pot)
Though the left hand has only one connector in the base, in that grip, there is enough room (and the wires there are clamped down so won't move in there),
and I have enough slack from the remaining wires to solder a few feet extra to them

Now I'll probably dive into the Rudders sooner or later, just the fact that such a simple functioning piece of gear, at that price, would start failing so soon irks me
and since I only fly Spits/Hurcs, the loss of a toe brake isn't debilitating


Well, if this works out positive, I can review my options
I was already thinking about upgrading my Combat pedals for a Baur BRD unit as first step up, or maybe that Virpil throttle, or stick,... or all 3 depending on finances/when the time is ripe


Small note:
It's amazing that in my search for throttle quadrants there's quite an offering of airline units compared to what's available for single engine enthusiasts

[Nightdare]

It's alive,... ALIVE!!!

After 12 painstaking hours that is!

I ended up soldering new wires to the old connectors because I received the wrong terminals
...of course I didn't realize this until I was almost done

And when finally everything was connected, I had to get a cable harness about 1/4th thicker than the old one, stuffed in the grips and through the same hole in the base
Which after some filing on the inside went fine with the left hand throttle with 8 wires, the right hand, OTOH, with 14 wires, left the root of the grip slightly open,
so I had to take some plastic off the root (The old saying: "If at first you don't succeed, you're not using enough force" didn't succeed)

After my reattempt opting for soldering, I didn't even bother with testing (I was at it from 16:00-05:00 save for a few short breaks)
"Do or die!". if it failed, it failed, so stuffed the wires in, put the bottom back on, screwed it shut and went to check, luckily, it worked perfectly again

All the moving areas are now thicker/better wire, and where possible, protected with shrink sleeves, I'm gonna open it up in a few months to see how it holds up
If there are any signs of the wires/sleeves receiving wear or damage again, I know it'll only be a matter of time

[ATAG_Highseas]

and...

YEY!

[1lokos]

Good job. Is not "easy?

BTW - For the low current/amperage of joystick signals, thicker wires don't matter, but an flexible wire like silicone rubber insulated is ideal.

[Nightdare]

Good job. Is not "easy?

BTW - For the low current/amperage of joystick signals, thicker wires don't matter, but an flexible wire like silicone rubber insulated is ideal.

Yeah I know, many wires in external cables aren't any thicker than what Saitek used
But I got this with the PHDR connector so used it

But man, that Saitek wire isn't just crap concerning the type of insulation used, the wire itself can't take much either