Thrustmaster T.16000M FCS Joystick any good?

[BilboSwaggins]

Hi I'm new to CoD and ATAG.

I've just finished my PC build and have finally been able to play IL2 CoD. I am currently playing using a PS3 controller but I wan't to upgrade to a joystick.

I've had a look around and the Thrustmaster T.16000M FCS has good reviews on amazon and is a price i'm happy with (60 quid max).

Has anyone had any experience with this? it it a good buy?

[9./JG52 Savage]

I've used it for years now. Still love it. Super accurate and nicely weighted.

[1lokos]

In this price range T.16000M is the best and only option in "entry level" joysticks - models that cost up to $100.

Their differential is use of contact less sensors (HALL sensor) in main axes (X,Y) what theoretically warranty long life, contrary to
low cost (and quality) potentiometer used in other low cost joysticks (e.g. Logitech 3D PRO) and T.16000M in secondary axes: throttle and twist rudder.

For ~70% more the option is VKB Gladiator - but this model is difficult to find available and is sold only in 3/4 places worldwide.

Anyway for Gladiator price ~$99, you can buy T.16000 FCS Flight Pack: stick + throttle bundle:

https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-...s=t.16000m+fcs

[ATAG_Snapper]

Hi I'm new to CoD and ATAG.

I've just finished my PC build and have finally been able to play IL2 CoD. I am currently playing using a PS3 controller but I wan't to upgrade to a joystick.

I've had a look around and the Thrustmaster T.16000M FCS has good reviews on amazon and is a price i'm happy with (60 quid max).

Has anyone had any experience with this? it it a good buy?

Hi Bilbo and welcome to the forum!

The TM16000 is an EXCELLENT joystick for this sim. I use it and a Sidewinder 2 interchangeably, their button and axis controls are remarkably similar. Both sticks use Halls sensors for the X and Y axis (vs potentiometers) and are very precise for handling and aiming your aircraft. It has a twist axis for rudder control, which will certainly do the trick until you get the yearning to mortgage your house and buy rudder pedals. But first, sell your left kidney and get an eye-tracking device - invaluable for maintaining situational awareness in a dogfight.

You won’t be disappointed in a TM16000.

Cheers!

Snapper

EDIT: Just saw lokos’ post above mine! I didn’t know that TM now makes a throttle paired up with the TM16000. That is a NICE combo!

[BilboSwaggins]

Hi Guys,

Thanks for the advice, Looking forward to picking one up next month when I get paid. Until then you'll have to forgive me for smashing into the runways on take off and landing! That's the biggest issue I've found using a game pad. That and aiming is a pain but if you miss your shot at least you don't bin it! XD

Thanks for the welcome

See you in Game

B

[ATAG_Highseas]

Hi I'm new to CoD and ATAG.

I've just finished my PC build and have finally been able to play IL2 CoD. I am currently playing using a PS3 controller but I wan't to upgrade to a joystick.

I've had a look around and the Thrustmaster T.16000M FCS has good reviews on amazon and is a price i'm happy with (60 quid max).

Has anyone had any experience with this? it it a good buy?

Welcome aboard.

I started off with a saitek x-52 pro.

I wouldnt recomend it though unless you only need it to last for the weekend !

Mine did two years... and actually it was pretty good... but the build quality is terrible. id say save that money and put it towards something non rubbish !!

Sounds like the T.16000M will hold its price so if you decide flight simming isnt for you you should be able to sell on again without too much loss.

I gradually upgraded my kit as i went along... small increments.

Lokos knows his stuff when it comes to the build quality / components of peripherals so the T.1600M must be pretty good value.

Like Snapper says another seemingly enduring stick is the Microsoft Sidewider II. I've never used one. Lots of folk here swear by them. Where as with Saitek its more swear at them.



See you up there.

[ATAG_Knight]

Hi BilboSwaggins

Welcome to the world that is Blitz

I have also heard/read good reviews for the Thrustmaster T.16000M FCS .

Also some sort of head tracking device and installing Teamspeak ( free to install ) so you can join us on coms .

Good to meet you the other night and hope to see you again real soon .

Knight.

[ATAG_Flare]

The stick is pretty good. I have one (only got it cause I wanted to buy the throttle and I could only find it with the HOTAS set) and while I still use my Cobra M5 (just like the feel better) I think the Thrustmaster would actually be more precise and not have a huge floppy dead-zone like my M5. The throttle is also pretty darn good for its price and would recommend it for sure.

[Startrek66]

first I had an Avr, now with this t16000 it is much easier to aim and hold the position.

[Oldsalt]

I'm new here too with a brand new T.16000M.

It has the most buttons I've had on one and as mentioned, it's reasonably priced. The only complaint I have are the strong springs, it's just not how a stick actually feels. I'm not familiar with high-end sticks, but would like to know if they're not as strong or if they're possibly adjustable?

[Oldsalt]

For anyone using the T.16000M, you might find this jpg I found on another forum useful.

As I'm just starting out, I'm reassigning buttons often trying to find the best commands to put on the stick. Until I finish the assignments and can use buttons without having to think about their location, it has helped me. I've had to print a few of these so far;

T.16000M.jpg

[ATAG_Snapper]

This is great - thanks for sharing this, Oldersalt!

[BOO]

Work of minutes to memorize the most frequently used keys for me

Ctrl E

[Tibsun]

For anyone using the T.16000M, you might find this jpg I found on another forum useful.

As I'm just starting out, I'm reassigning buttons often trying to find the best commands to put on the stick. Until I finish the assignments and can use buttons without having to think about their location, it has helped me. I've had to print a few of these so far;

T.16000M.jpg

My setup was like this or would be since I got the TWCS Throttle with it which negated the pitch set up like it was on my 3D Pro:

Unbenannt.png

Now I use my beloved VKB MCG Gunfighter + TWCS Throttle

[Karaya]

Been using the T.16000M for many years now and have yet to regret it. Same sensors as in the much more expensive Warthog so it's very precise. Last year I changed over from an old model to the new FCS and while the FCS looks nicer overall I find the buttons on the joystick base less smooth and kind of "sticky". On the other hand I've put some serious hours into it and it's operating flawlessly. With the old model I found them "giving up the ghost" after about a year of use with axes starting to spike and buttons going dead. So far this hasnt been the case with the FCS model. Well spent 50€ I would say!

Might buy the additional throttle unit which would certainly come in handy in something like DCS.

[1lokos]

The only complaint I have are the strong springs, it's just not how a stick actually feels.

Some people use in T.16000M the same 'MOD' used in Saitek's, tie 2 spring coils together with 'zip-ties' - but don't tight much.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5NsEpDkFvdU

I'm not familiar with high-end sticks, but would like to know if they're not as strong or if they're possibly adjustable?

"High end" stick base made by VKB, VPC and BRD are customizable by user changing/combining springs/CAM profile, but sticks from common brands don't offer option, exception for Saitek's X-56 that came with 4/5 springs options.

An useful MOD - if you are "brave" in DIY, is add a "pinky" button, wirid in parallel with one of this buttons in "wrong" side of base - right for right-handed persons.

With this simple MOD you double the functions of 4 tops buttons and POV HAT with one hand.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wz40sGSX8SA

[Oldsalt]

Some people use in T.16000M the same 'MOD' used in Saitek's, tie 2 spring coils together with 'zip-ties' - but don't tight much.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5NsEpDkFvdU



"High end" stick base made by VKB, VPC and BRD are customizable by user changing/combining springs/CAM profile, but sticks from common brands don't offer option, exception for Saitek's X-56 that came with 4/5 springs options.

An useful MOD - if you are "brave" in DIY, is add a "pinky" button, wirid in parallel with one of this buttons in "wrong" side of base - right for right-handed persons.

With this simple MOD you double the functions of 4 tops buttons and POV HAT with one hand.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wz40sGSX8SA

Wow, exactly what I need. I'll definitely be making this mod, the tie wraps and fishing line arrive the day after tomorrow. You've been a big help!

I now have TeamSpeak up and running and hope to be online soon. Is there a server for new pilots or do you become easy meat for experienced pilots?

One of the major differences between the sticks used in the 40's to 90's is that they were much longer, 2 feet plus, making small movement much more precise. But I guess current pilots have adapted to the side stick in our modern aircraft. They probably grew up flying sims and find using side sticks is second nature.

Joytokey has allowed me to add most of the commands I use while flying, so I won't be attempting the last mod.

[1lokos]

One of the major differences between the sticks used in the 40's to 90's is that they were much longer, 2 feet plus, making small movement much more precise.

Look at page #118 of this Computer Pilot magazine about "stick geometry":

http://www.pcaviatornetwork.com/files/CP143MT6FZ6A.ZIP
https://pt.scribd.com/document/27321...ilot-2010-0405

[Oldsalt]

Some people use in T.16000M the same 'MOD' used in Saitek's, tie 2 spring coils together with 'zip-ties' - but don't tight much.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5NsEpDkFvdU



"High end" stick base made by VKB, VPC and BRD are customizable by user changing/combining springs/CAM profile, but sticks from common brands don't offer option, exception for Saitek's X-56 that came with 4/5 springs options.

An useful MOD - if you are "brave" in DIY, is add a "pinky" button, wirid in parallel with one of this buttons in "wrong" side of base - right for right-handed persons.

With this simple MOD you double the functions of 4 tops buttons and POV HAT with one hand.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wz40sGSX8SA

Well I tried the compressed spring method. I used the smallest cable ties I could find, 3" and there was no interference with the stick base. But no matter how or where I positioned the wraps on the spring, the tension was never even. It took more pressure to roll left than right and more to pitch up than down or vise-versa.

I came across this video about using a heavy grease to dampen the movement, it's a compromise, but looks like it might help:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KdUP6UJmB-E

On another forum I heard about another app called, Joystick Curves. I used this option many years ago on a different sim, but they had this option programmed into the sim itself (where it should be). It's a great help being able to make very fine movements from a centered stick.

But before I install it, would you, or anyone know if Joystick Curves will work and not interfere with Joytokey? And I assume you would start Joystick Curves before Joytokey, or would it matter?

[thee_oddball]

I bought my T.16000M years ago and have no complaints, strong,well made and precise. I just dragged this Frankenstein mess out of the closet and will need a chisel to get the dust off but they all still work....and yes guys that's a Saitek X45, don't laugh it still works

20181218_085320.jpg

[ATAG_Torian]

nm

[priller26]

I love them but unfortunatly I cant get either to work in the new 4.54 blitz patch.

[aonesur]

16000M hasn't changed for years and there's a reason for that – it's so good, it just works. But when you put it next to the throttle it does feel a little dated. I'd have loved to have had another hat switch on the joystick and maybe another button on the main stick, too. ... The throttle, however, is brilliant. surveyzop

[Karaya]

The T16000M and TWCS throttle are great for the price but neither is brilliant. They both have their achilles heels.
On the joystick it's the rudder axis, on the throttle it is the rocker axis. Both will break down pretty fast with usage.

Also my TWCS needed some fiddling around to get it to work reasonably well. I had to loosen the bolt on the underside as well as open up the underside and lube the rails that the throttle runs on to make it smooth.
Without this there was a lot of stickyness which made small, accurate throttle inputs impossible.

Still for the small budget I'd say they are both a good pick.

[1lokos]

Also my TWCS needed some fiddling around to get it to work reasonably well. I had to loosen the bolt on the underside as well as open up the underside and lube the rails that the throttle runs on to make it smooth.
Without this there was a lot of stickyness which made small, accurate throttle inputs impossible.

Sliding bearings mod



https://www.etsy.com/listing/9683467...master-t16000m

[Erpr.Gr.210_Mölders]

I'm using both the T16000 and the TWCS Throttle from 2017 and I haven't had a single problem with them until now ( ...and I play really a lot )....but stay away from the Thrustmaster TFRP rudder pedals they are beyond crap ( too imprecise for small rudders movements it's their main problem over all with WW2 flight sims ). Their rail system is a total fail on all the line...

[Baffin]

I'm using both the T16000 and the TWCS Throttle from 2017 and I haven't had a single problem with them until now ( ...and I play really a lot )....but stay away from the Thrustmaster TFRP rudder pedals they are beyond crap ( too imprecise for small rudders movements it's their main problem over all with WW2 flight sims ). Their rail system is a total fail on all the line...

TFRP's not to be confused with the Thrustmaster TPR pedals which are the finest you can lay your toes on.

[carbolicus]

The T16000M and TWCS throttle are great for the price but neither is brilliant. They both have their achilles heels.
On the joystick it's the rudder axis, on the throttle it is the rocker axis. Both will break down pretty fast with usage.

Also my TWCS needed some fiddling around to get it to work reasonably well. I had to loosen the bolt on the underside as well as open up the underside and lube the rails that the throttle runs on to make it smooth.
Without this there was a lot of stickyness which made small, accurate throttle inputs impossible.

Still for the small budget I'd say they are both a good pick.

I've had my T16000M for about seven years and used it regularly with no problems at all, rudder axis is fine still. I recommend it highly, especially for the price.

[ATAG_Torian]

Sliding bearings mod



https://www.etsy.com/listing/9683467...master-t16000m

Is the slide bearing that bad that it needs this ??

[Erpr.Gr.210_Mölders]

Is the slide bearing that bad that it needs this ??

At least based on my experience with it I can say totally useless. If you keep the rails well greased and you regulate well the dedicated screw following your preferences the throttle works smoth as silk

*At least here I have 0 side bearing on the throttle

I do not want to be wrong but the major thing that the mod adds is the detent.