Basic Easy Allied Fighters CEM for Beginners

[ATAG_Lewis]

These settings work with BLITZ and CLOD

Below is a 'set it up and forget about it' setup for allied fighters that you should be able to fly freely without having to look at your dashboard dials at all and therefore be able to concentrate more on other aspects of your flying such as gunnery ,combat and situation awareness (SA). This setup has the flexibility to be tweaked at a later date when players are more comfortable but importantly although is conservative is still highly competitive. You will be able to dogfight competitively and immediately online.. I still use this setup even today after 2,000 hours in this sim...because it works...

Sometimes you maybe told by experienced players to keep an eye on temperatures and RPMs...IGNORE THEM!...You don't need to do that with this setup!...As a new player you need to start with an easier setup...

The 3 aircraft that this setup works on is ONLY the Spitfires Ia (100oct) ...Spit IIa and the Hurricane I (Rotol) ...At the moment there is always an option to find at least one if not two, sometimes all three of these aircraft on every map currently in the ATAG online server map rotation. Its important you only pick one of these aircraft as this setup will overheat any of the other aircraft which are a lot less forgiving.


So firstly you will have to set your engine management window ingame to numerical percentages (%) (Windows section in the 'Beginners Guide' will show you how to do this)..This will then allow us (or anyone) to transfer specific information to your aircraft in the form of numerical values for Throttle, Prop Pitch and Radiator settings (Mix is left alone at 0%). Check bottom left corner of video below to see how this should look in your game.

So..

For take off....Put your chocks in...Set your Rad to 100% and throttle to 15% while your engine warms....Wait until your 'Oil Temp' (Orange Dial on right side) reaches 40 degrees.

Leave your Mixture at 0% and do not touch it at all throughout.

Then for take off...Chocks out and then...

TAKE OFF

Throttle 110% (use Boost for take off)
Prop 100%
Rad 75%

Once airbourne...

Easy CEM for cruise and dogfight

Throttle 100%
Prop 85%
Rad 75%

Write the settings down together with the 3 specific aircraft until you know them...

You can now go off and get stuck into the dogfight....

So this is a good starting point and will allow you to get busy with the enemy without having any Complex Engine Management (CEM) to worry about....You can also experiment from these settings later if you feel you need to...

I would also advise at this stage to simply ignore the 'Boost Cut-Out' until you feel comfortable enough that you can experiment with it...Its an engine cooker and the advantage you will gain is minimal...

Check the bottom left Engine Management window on this video to see how this setting works..





I hope this helps new players...

and let me know how you get on...I need all the feedback I can with this

...Lew...

[Gorgon14]

Thanks for this, I've been struggling with it.

[harisund]

For take off....Set your Rad to 100% and throttle to 0% while your engine warms....Wait until your 'Oil Temp' (Orange Dial on right side) reaches 40 degrees and then open your Radiator fully to 100%.

Based on the wiki, I am guessing it should be rad to 0% and throttle to 10% while engine warms?

[ATAG_Freya]

Based on the wiki, I am guessing it should be rad to 0% and throttle to 10% while engine warms?

Yep. That is basically a standard procedure for warmup. After that, open rads, taxi out, take off, and KILL EVERYTHING that isn't waving the proper flag!

[9./JG52 Reinhart]

I'll take this information to Luftwaffe High Command at once

kidding Lew, useful stuff. Kinda makes me want to try my hand at the Spit but knowing me I'll probably always stick to my trusty 109

[ATAG_Lewis]

Yep. That is basically a standard procedure for warmup. After that, open rads, taxi out, take off, and KILL EVERYTHING that isn't waving the proper flag!

I thought about the Rad 0% for warmup..But if you think about it the rad open or closed should make no difference if your aircraft is standing still surely?...The radiators rely on airflow....like a Formula 1 car on the grid...

[1lokos]

Running propeller generate air flow, even with the plane in "grid box".

Sokol1

[ATAG_Lewis]

Rgrt...but don't forget that the engine will be on low revs or tickover.....and even on tickover they will overheat

[ATAG_Endless]

I'd say tell new players to open rads to 100% it's not procedure but there will be allot of blown rads because they will surely forget

[ATAG_Lewis]

I'd say tell new players to open rads to 100% it's not procedure but there will be allot of blown rads because they will surely forget

Rgrt...Its already there...100% rad on warm up...I thought the same thing

[Steve D]

It's not modeled in the game as far as I can tell, but early Spits certainly would overheat on the ground because the radiator is situated largely outside the prop wash. The Hurri didn't suffer from this because it's ventral rad caught the prop wash nicely. In game Spits can tick over with rad open as long as you like and nothing happens. Yeah, always open the rad at start up, that way you'll never forget and have your engine die shortly after takeoff.

Cheers!

[Mr_Blastman]

So I'm trying to take off in the Spitfire Mk II... Every single time my nose goes down and my plane flips over. I apply a little backpressure, my right wing goes up. I fix that and I start porpoising. What am I doing wrong?

Throttle all the way to the stops, radiator 100%, mixture is all the way back (in fact, the sim won't let me change mixture even though CEM is on), I'm boosting to 8 (it stops at 8 on the gauge) and prop pitch is 100%.

Every... single... time. Argh. I've flown a lot of Rise of Flight so I know how to take prop buggers off but this plane is a whole new order of Satan.

Any tips?

I notice on some online vids there are percentages next to the gauges on your hud (the bars) but on mine, no percentages, just the bars.

[Baffin]

First, take off into the wind! Use the runway that shows the yellow signboards on takeoff. Depending on the mission map, failing to do this can result in the most experienced of us ground-looping with much weeping and gnashing of teeth.

A good takeoff begins with a proper trim setting. (A unit of trim is one of the graphic divisions on the elevator trim gauge.)

RAF Spitfire Pilots' notes (Our Flight Manual) recommends one unit aircraft nose down (AND) before takeoff. This will establish about 220 MPH in the climb later. The plane will almost fly itself off the ground a little after 90 MPH (Rotation Speed).

Alternatively, 1.5 units AND will get the tail up a bit earlier so you can get close to a Level Flight picture before rotating at 90 MPH. This trims the plane for about 245 MPH which is close to Spitfire cornering speed. (Basically the tightest, fastest turn you can get)

This thread has great guidance for setting up the pre-flight machinery, but does not really address the "Pitch Picture" of a normal takeoff. What should you be seeing during the takeoff?

With whatever trim setting, approaching 90 MPH smoothly rotate to align the horizon with the bottom of the front windscreen. Hold that picture throughout gear retraction... do not let the pitch wander up or down. Fly the plane... don't let it fly itself!

When the gear retracted red light comes on, lower the nose to put the center of the gun sight on the horizon while simultaneously reducing the propeller pitch just a little to establish 2850 RPM. Leave the throttle full open while accelerating and once again, do not let the pitch picture wander. Your rate of climb will be about 100 Feet per minute as you rapidly speed up.

At 185 MPH, you have sufficient airflow to open the radiator shutters without over temping. One half open position is a good starting point until you figure out your favorite setting.

Keep an eye on the RPMs (2850 max for 30 minutes) during climb out, especially in the early MK I, as the RPM will climb with the altitude. Interestingly, that limit is reduced to 2700 RPM in the "new" MK II.

As you accelerate past 200 MPH, the stick pressure will decrease until you reach the airspeed associated with the preflight trim setting. At this point, allow the pitch to increase and the plane will almost climb itself.

Check six!

[Otyg]

About the info windows. Lewis wrote an excellent guide
http://theairtacticalassaultgroup.co...ead.php?t=3273

Feel free to ask if you have more questions.

[ATAG_Lewis]

Taking off online is tricky now that the wind has been added to it....Try experimenting with ailerons too....We are all struggling with it buddy..stick with it

Here's the windows guide that will get those numerical value percentages onto your screen..

Windows Management Guide

Some argue here that they prefer 'FULL' real and so have no windows at all...some have only a chat window......It is entirely upto you...but..Having a window with numerical values whilst you are learning CEM to exchange values from other players is useful

[ATAG_Torian]

So I'm trying to take off in the Spitfire Mk II... Every single time my nose goes down and my plane flips over. I apply a little backpressure, my right wing goes up. I fix that and I start porpoising. What am I doing wrong?

Throttle all the way to the stops, radiator 100%, mixture is all the way back (in fact, the sim won't let me change mixture even though CEM is on), I'm boosting to 8 (it stops at 8 on the gauge) and prop pitch is 100%.

Every... single... time. Argh. I've flown a lot of Rise of Flight so I know how to take prop buggers off but this plane is a whole new order of Satan.

Any tips?

I notice on some online vids there are percentages next to the gauges on your hud (the bars) but on mine, no percentages, just the bars.

Don't ever worry about mixture in Brit fighters. It is locked to ur throttle anyway so if u are warming up at 10-15% throttle then it won't let u push the mixture forward. The only time u should push the mixture forward to auto lean is when ur rpm is below 2400 and throttle is forward enough to allow the mixture lever to move forward (only 2 settings in mixture..auto rich or auto lean) and u want to cruise at altitude to save fuel. For the rest of the time just leave it in the default auto rich.
As has been said u gotta find which way the wind is blowing and takeoff into it. It is possible to takeoff with nose not into the wind but u will need to manage it very carefully. Full right rudder trim and some right rudder to counter until tail wheel lifts for a normal takeoff into the wind. U didn't mention prop pitch so I am assuming u know to make sure it's set to fully fine.
Likely u are leaving rotation until too late. U need to be getting wheels up at 90-100 mph. Not much over that and u will nose over every time.

[Dresarian]

TREMENDOUSLY helpful, however in Campaign I'm having a devil of a time maintaining speed/climb rate with my squadron, leading me to be well below them when battle commences. Kind of spine-tingling to start every combat with an energy disadvantage. (Especially head on with a 110's 20mm cannons!) It's not a drastic, everyone whizzing past me deficit, more of a slow drawn out slide to the bottom. Any recommendations to get peak climb performance out of the Rotol Hurri? I set for 5-minute power (based on flight manual) and still end up the tag-along little brother of the group.

[ATAG_Torian]

TREMENDOUSLY helpful, however in Campaign I'm having a devil of a time maintaining speed/climb rate with my squadron, leading me to be well below them when battle commences. Kind of spine-tingling to start every combat with an energy disadvantage. (Especially head on with a 110's 20mm cannons!) It's not a drastic, everyone whizzing past me deficit, more of a slow drawn out slide to the bottom. Any recommendations to get peak climb performance out of the Rotol Hurri? I set for 5-minute power (based on flight manual) and still end up the tag-along little brother of the group.

Assuming u have same fuel loadout and u haven't used flaps for takeoff and left them down.....u should be able maintain 2800 rpm, full throttle and 50% radiator right up to 20,000ft. Do u trim ur plane for least drag ?

[Dresarian]

Assuming u have same fuel loadout and u haven't used flaps for takeoff and left them down.....u should be able maintain 2800 rpm, full throttle and 50% radiator right up to 20,000ft. Do u trim ur plane for least drag ?

I had a feeling it was radiator drag. I've been leaving it at 75% and running 2650-2700 rpm. It's such a frustration to fly out, overheat as battle begins and and have to hit restart I guess I've gotten overly conservative with my engine management. As far as trim goes I just try to trim out sideslip.

[ATAG_Deacon]

I had a feeling it was radiator drag. I've been leaving it at 75% and running 2650-2700 rpm. It's such a frustration to fly out, overheat as battle begins and and have to hit restart I guess I've gotten overly conservative with my engine management. As far as trim goes I just try to trim out sideslip.

You have to maintain forward airspeed to properly cool the engine. I find if I keep at least 180 mph in a climb that I never overheat...as I approach 20k I need to level off and open the rads a bit, but it's never been an issue.

[duko]

Spitfires and Hurricanes ONLY

Great guide! Can u do one for germans planes too?

[Otyg]

Great guide! Can u do one for germans planes too?

109 e3
Orad 45-50%
Rad 3/4 open
Rpm 2300-2350. Not higher then 2500
You can go all day with that.

[ATAG_Dave]

Easy CEM for cruise and dogfight

Throttle 100%
Prop 85%
Rad 75%

I find in the spit mk1a (100) you can climb all day long with

Th 100%
Prop 90%
Rad 70%

.....if you keep your airspeed above 175 (so a rough guide would be keep your sustained climb rate at around 3000 ft / min).

Once sustained climb is over you can drop the rad back to 60 to 65% without issues (slow turn fighting / repeated hard climbing will of course mean you need to open the rad more again).

[GloriousRuse]

Great guide! Can u do one for germans planes too?

E-4 and beyond set it and forget it:

1. Water rads to 75% ish - open them all the way, then crank them back until the handle is parallel to your wingline and pointing under "zu" on the crank.
2. Oil rads to 45% ish - just look at your engine management panel
3. Turn auto prop pitch off
4. Crank prop pitch up 12 o clock
5. Throttle 100%, Take off.
6. Prop pitch back down to 11:30
7. Turn auto prop pitch back on.


Good for all but the longest climbs and dives at 100% throttle. If you must climb directly to 5.5k while staying under 300kph, cut your throttle a bit. (Exception, /N models. Don't do the initial climb out at 100%...wait until you get to over 300 KPH after take off, otherwise those 2650 big RPMs will fry you before you've got the airflow you need)

If you need to cool off, just let a touch off the throttle. Your temps will drop fast, faster even than mucking about with your rads.

If you need the speed, you can drop oil to 30% and Water to just below the Ausf line. Just make sure you keep that speed up, cause if you try a slow climb or something with that, you'll burn your engines out quick.

E-1/E-3. No such thing. Rads to 45/75, throttle to 100%, and then just use your pitch to adjust RPMs. 2300 is your magic cetner point to avoid "oops",evn though you have tolerances for 2400/2500, and can even go to just under 3000 briefly.

[duko]

E-4 and beyond set it and forget it:

1. Water rads to 75% ish - open them all the way, then crank them back until the handle is parallel to your wingline and pointing under "zu" on the crank.
2. Oil rads to 45% ish - just look at your engine management panel
3. Turn auto prop pitch off
4. Crank prop pitch up 12 o clock
5. Throttle 100%, Take off.
6. Prop pitch back down to 11:30
7. Turn auto prop pitch back on.


Good for all but the longest climbs and dives at 100% throttle. If you must climb directly to 5.5k while staying under 300kph, cut your throttle a bit. (Exception, /N models. Don't do the initial climb out at 100%...wait until you get to over 300 KPH after take off, otherwise those 2650 big RPMs will fry you before you've got the airflow you need)

If you need to cool off, just let a touch off the throttle. Your temps will drop fast, faster even than mucking about with your rads.

If you need the speed, you can drop oil to 30% and Water to just below the Ausf line. Just make sure you keep that speed up, cause if you try a slow climb or something with that, you'll burn your engines out quick.

E-1/E-3. No such thing. Rads to 45/75, throttle to 100%, and then just use your pitch to adjust RPMs. 2300 is your magic cetner point to avoid "oops",evn though you have tolerances for 2400/2500, and can even go to just under 3000 briefly.

thank you!

[=FI=Murph]

With Spits and Hurris, it makes no difference if the radiator is opened or closed during warm-up in terms of how quickly the engine reaches proper takeoff temps, so you may as well leave it open.

[ATAG_Lewis]

E-4 and beyond set it and forget it:

1. Water rads to 75% ish - open them all the way, then crank them back until the handle is parallel to your wingline and pointing under "zu" on the crank.
2. Oil rads to 45% ish - just look at your engine management panel
3. Turn auto prop pitch off
4. Crank prop pitch up 12 o clock
5. Throttle 100%, Take off.
6. Prop pitch back down to 11:30
7. Turn auto prop pitch back on.


Good for all but the longest climbs and dives at 100% throttle. If you must climb directly to 5.5k while staying under 300kph, cut your throttle a bit. (Exception, /N models. Don't do the initial climb out at 100%...wait until you get to over 300 KPH after take off, otherwise those 2650 big RPMs will fry you before you've got the airflow you need)

If you need to cool off, just let a touch off the throttle. Your temps will drop fast, faster even than mucking about with your rads.

If you need the speed, you can drop oil to 30% and Water to just below the Ausf line. Just make sure you keep that speed up, cause if you try a slow climb or something with that, you'll burn your engines out quick.

E-1/E-3. No such thing. Rads to 45/75, throttle to 100%, and then just use your pitch to adjust RPMs. 2300 is your magic cetner point to avoid "oops",evn though you have tolerances for 2400/2500, and can even go to just under 3000 briefly.

Hello GR...I will copy and paste this setup in the Original Post above if that is okay....I have no knowledge of Axis aircraft (I haven't mastered the Allied ones yet..lol) so this will be a great help..

Thanks..lew...~S~

[GloriousRuse]

Happily

[HipoxiK]

Excellent info, thanks.

[Baffin]

I thought about the Rad 0% for warmup..But if you think about it the rad open or closed should make no difference if your aircraft is standing still surely?...The radiators rely on airflow....like a Formula 1 car on the grid...

I agree with this. I tested warm ups on the RAF Spitfire [liquid-cooled fighter] and discovered that a warmup at idle takes 3 minutes. A warm up at maximum throttle with smooth engine (about 1600 RPM) will reduce that to 90 seconds. Position of the radiator shutters has no effect. This seems logical with no airflow in the radiators.