Nice experimental work there Fidge!!...Good to know!
Nice experimental work there Fidge!!...Good to know!
"The trouble with the world is that the stupid are cocksure and the intelligent are full of doubt.'' - Bertrand Russell1.618 - You know this number?My Turing machine :CPU: Intel Core i7 2700K 3.50GHz Sandybridge, Motherboard: Asus Maximus IV Extreme -Z Intel Z68 (Socket 1155) PCI-Express DDR3,
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Last edited by Baffin; Nov-03-2015 at 20:15.
Windows 11 Pro, ASUS ROG Maximus Z790 Dark Hero, 2 TB Samsung M.2 SSD 990PRO. Intel Core i9 14900KF using TPUII BIOS feature. Air Cooling with Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE CPU Cooler w/ 2 fans. Crucial 96GB DDR 5 RAM at 5600 MT/s. LG 55" 4K OLEDC7P TV, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4090 Gaming X Trio 24G. Realtek High Definition Audio, Sony Surround amp w/ optical cable for 5.1 speakers, Ear Buds from Motherboard for Discord/TeamSpeak3. TrackIR5, Buttkicker Gamer 2, Thrustmaster Warthog, 2x Saitek X-52 (Buttons & Gear), Gear-Falcon Trim Box, Thrustmaster TPR Pendular Rudder Pedals. Voice Activated Controls.
The modeling of overheat on the ground is not well handled in CLIFFS OF DOVER.
The aircraft with radiators on their wings were much quicker to heat up and overheat... to the point a real life pilot had very little time to start up and takeoff, especially in the later very high horsepower models. Aircraft with centrally located radiators, ie. directly behind the prop flow, did not have as much of a problem.
This issue is something we would like to address, but changes will probably not be included in TF 5.0.
Very useful advice, thanks!
I think the position of the radiator has to be having some effect when you are warming up as there is that strange bug when you land and switch off your engine not facing into wind but don't despawn. The engine will start getting hotter without the prop turning, fair enough, but opening the rad all the way will not stop the temp rising while *closing* the rad cools it very quickly! Perhaps that bug only happens when the engine is off?
56sqn US@R - Diary of a hopeless Pilot Officer http://roblex56raf.livejournal.com/
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A brief description of the liquid cooling process for non mechanical players:
Heat increase is to be expected after engine shutdown. This is a normal response in all liquid cooled internal combustion engines. As the engine runs, the metal surrounding the heat producing components such as cylinders, cylinder heads and bearings becomes very hot. It has to in order for the clearances (distances) between moving parts to stabilize. Once it gets hot enough however, the cooling system opens a thermostatically controlled valve to permit flow of the coolant by means of an engine driven "Water" pump to carry excess heat away from the engine block to the radiator for heat exchange with the outside air. Pretty cool, eh?
After engine shutdown with a hot engine, the water pump stops, and so does the coolant flow. The radiator can no longer exchange heat to the air, but the hot engine block continues to heat up the coolant. If the engine is extremely hot at shutdown, there may be sufficient energy to bring the coolant to a boil. Boiling is bad... very bad.
In older automobiles, this effect was easily apparent because the coolant temperature gauges were not electric. You could watch the temperature increase after the motor was shut off. In modern cars, the ignition must be selected on after waiting a minute to see this effect.
Depending on the design of the engine, you should be able to observe this, even in your new Bentley.
Last edited by Baffin; Oct-22-2016 at 09:24.
Windows 11 Pro, ASUS ROG Maximus Z790 Dark Hero, 2 TB Samsung M.2 SSD 990PRO. Intel Core i9 14900KF using TPUII BIOS feature. Air Cooling with Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE CPU Cooler w/ 2 fans. Crucial 96GB DDR 5 RAM at 5600 MT/s. LG 55" 4K OLEDC7P TV, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4090 Gaming X Trio 24G. Realtek High Definition Audio, Sony Surround amp w/ optical cable for 5.1 speakers, Ear Buds from Motherboard for Discord/TeamSpeak3. TrackIR5, Buttkicker Gamer 2, Thrustmaster Warthog, 2x Saitek X-52 (Buttons & Gear), Gear-Falcon Trim Box, Thrustmaster TPR Pendular Rudder Pedals. Voice Activated Controls.
Ha, glad this got bumped. Flown nothing but Blennies in the last month and a half (save one time last week in a hurricane). For me, having a baseline to work with is definitely the best way to improve. Thanks for the post!
Thanks for the post Zeb...In order to encourage new players to stick with this sim I realised it was important that we have a setup for them that can be left well alone and so allow new players to get 'stuck in' to the fight immediately...Its very important for a lot of new players to be competitive quickly...This allied setup gives that...
I often hear folks on comms explaining to new players how to keep an eye on their temps and RPM which is simply not necessary and only gives the new players more complications and more things to be concerned about at the very beginning...In short it can put them off....Many new players come from sims/games like WarThunder and we need not put them off in their first few weeks by introducing to them complicated CEM on their first days with us...I still don't use CEM even now...I use these settings...
A lot of new folks can benefit from this as it can give them the introduction to the sim which they can expand on and to complex engine managements later on when they are more comfortable with the basics of flying and combat...
Not everyone here wants the extra complications when they are not necessary...A lot of folks just enjoy the fighting and cat and mouse aspect of combat flight sims without too much messing about looking at their cockpit dials...
I believe its really important for new players....
"The trouble with the world is that the stupid are cocksure and the intelligent are full of doubt.'' - Bertrand Russell1.618 - You know this number?My Turing machine :CPU: Intel Core i7 2700K 3.50GHz Sandybridge, Motherboard: Asus Maximus IV Extreme -Z Intel Z68 (Socket 1155) PCI-Express DDR3,
RAM: 8GB (2x4GB) DDR3 Dual Channel Kit, Graphics Card: Nvidia GeForce GTX 970 4096MB GDDR5, OS:Windows 10
Joystick: Microsoft Sidewinder II ForceFeedback Joystick, Throttle: CH Products Pro Throttle
ATAG_Lewis Youtube Channel
Thanks a lot for these tips,Lewis!That encouraged me to leave my trusty Bf 110 in the hangar for some missions and try out the Hurricane.Result:My first air kill on the ATAG server!
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" Better a thorn on the outside than a prick on the inside"
Thank you very much for this thread. Also for the 109s. As a newcomer it is great to have a baseline to start with CEM. I've fried some engines a few minutes after into combat as I simply forget to watch for the rads/RPMs when dogfighting.
After a year of flying the Blennicane, I decided to learn the Spit. This was my first 109 encounter after a few evenings learning the ropes. These settings are the bee's knees.
Thanks Lew!
My Rig: Samsung 40" TV, 5600X on Air, RTX3080 FE, 32GB Gskill Neo 3600 CL16 RAM, M2 Gen 4 Drives, Corsair RM850X PSU, MFG Crosswinds, TM WH Throttle, Virpil Mongoose T50CM w/100mm extension, TIR5, EDtracker pro.
" Better a thorn on the outside than a prick on the inside"
Bubble of happiness burst.
Just kidding. Hope they make it horrendously realistic...giving us the opportunity for new rules of thumb!
Brilliant! being a complete newbie this helped a lot thanks.
Lewis work is fantastic!
But be careful, since he wrote this the critical marks for engine management changed with several patches.
Also some aircraft like the Spit V aor the later Hurricane variants were not in game, when he wrote this.
Check the flashcards in the 'Manuals' section of the game to find more recent information.
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